[8/15/15 Update: Whytes has relaunched on Kickstarter and slashed their prices. Pledges for the Pioneer now start at just $176 and the Discoverer for $192!]
Whytes Watches of
Vancouver, British Columbia has launched their Venturer range with two
new models: the Pioneer Mk 1 and the Discoverer Mk 1, and allowed The
Time Bum to play with pre-production samples of each for this review.
The watches feature classic dials in bold cases and are powered by the
Miyota 9100 and 9110, multi-function automatic movements that are fairly
uncommon among micro brands. A Kickstarter funding campaign is
currently underway, with rewards starting at $425 CAD (@ $338 USD) for the Pioneer and $495 CAD (@ $394 USD) for the Discoverer. (see update above)
The watch ships in a lacquered presentation box, a sturdy and attractive
package that provides a hint at the character of the watch inside.
Peering inside, two things are immediately apparent: the watch is
gorgeous, and it is big. This is not to say the Venturers are Panerai
sized wrist monsters. The case is actually a very reasonable 42mm wide
and 50mm long, but 12mm thick with a large dial, imposing lugs, and
diamond crown, all of which give it tremendous presence. Overall quality
and fit and finish were excellent. One would be hard pressed to peg
them for prototypes.
The case is 316l stainless steel, of course, and polished on all
surfaces save the brushed and decorated screw-in case back. Straight
lugs with rounded tops extend from the round case, angling downwards to
stubby barrels containing dual headed screw bars. Bum aficionados know
my difficult relationship with this kind of attachment, but I must
confess, the exposed heads look pretty cool recessed into the barrels.
The bezel is stepped, and both surfaces are rounded, creating an elegant
frame for the sapphire crystal and dial within. Case sides are smooth
and vertical, which further enhances its size.
The crown is at 3 o'clock and looks like that of an IWC Big Pilot with
its diamond shape, deep fluting, and prodigious size. It is signed with a
"W." I found it easy to operate and perfectly proportionate with the
case. On production models, it will also screw down, helping to bring
the water resistance to 100 meters.
As mentioned above, the dials are large, but that space is put to good
use. It is at this stage that the watches diverge, revealing their
unique personalities. The Pioneer is the simpler of the two. Its white
dial is marked with black Arabic numerals and a finely printed seconds
index. The numbers are applied, not printed. Its hands are slim black
batons with a sliver of lume applied to their midsections. This is the
only lume on the dial, and not very impressive in the dark. The date
window is framed in black and does not crowd the 3, indeed nothing is
crowded on this dial. There is ample room for everything.
Additional complications come courtesy of the Miyota 9110. This
automatic movement is in the same family as the ubiquitous 9015, with
the same 28.8k bph beat rate but it has 26 jewels instead of 24, adds a
24-hour display and a 40 hour power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock.
Power reserves are cool, but they are not the easiest features to
incorporate into a dial. A half-circle, "gas gauge," with a needle
poking everywhere but up does not always sit comfortably at the top of
the dial where we normally look for balance and orientation. Whytes has
pulled it off. The silver index is recessed into a second layer that
extends from 11 to 1. The downward pointing needle is anchored at 12,
sweeping over the upward pointing Whytes 10-and-2 W logo. The
juxtaposition of the three lines creates the illusion of symmetry. It is
a clever solution.
The Discoverer is the most ornate of the two. Its 9100 unit also has a
power reserve but forgoes the 24-hour dial for day and month subdials at
9 and 3, with ringed indexes rendered in the same silver as
the reserve. The silver date function is at 4:30. The otherwise empty
space at 6 is now occupied by the word "automatic" to balance the
activity above. Minutes are marked with silver dots and the seconds
index moves to a white chapter ring. Finally, the markers are polished,
applied, and lume filled, glowing nicely when the lights went down.
The calendar functions are set by a button recessed into the case at 2
o'clock. Unlike most watches with this feature, Whytes has included a
setting tool. It is an impressive item, hewn from titanium with a
knurled grip and lethal looking point. The production piece will have a
blunt end to avoid scratches.
On my 6.5" wrist, the Venturers wore large but not absurdly so. The
straight, 22mm leather straps with their contrasting stitching fit the
dress/casual nature of the watches. These are sport watches, after all,
albeit rather fancy ones. The straps were attractive and comfortable as
they were, but Whytes promises higher quality leather on the finished
product. The Pioneer used a traditional buckle while the Discoverer had a
deployant clasp, although a buckle is being considered. Both were
signed.
I appreciated the designs of both of these watches. The classically
styled dials are handsome with some clever, elegant touches. They would
dress up nicely with some padded, tapered straps. I also liked the fact
that they have high water resistance and the Discoverer has useful lume.
My only issue is the size of the case. I felt the thickness stole the
spotlight from the dressier aspects of the watch, and it just felt a
little too large on me. On a bigger guy with a wrist 7" or larger, it
would make far more sense.
Pro: Elegant dials, interesting movements.
Con: Thick case. Wears much larger than its dimensions suggest.
Sum: An appealing watch, even if it was too much for me.
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L'azienda di orologi Jacques Lemans è stata fondata nel 1975 in Austria ed è ancora sede lì oggi.
